We offer a full line of preformed pond liners and preformed waterfalls. We also carry 45ML rubber liner that can be cut to fit your dimensions.

Our staff in the pond dept. will assist you with all you will need to set up and maintain your water garden and fish-pond. We carry a full line of pumps, filters, and UV lights, and all the accessories. Choose from many types of water features such as fishing angel, musical nymphs, to fish and turtles.

Cold Weather Care

Steps to insure your pond good health through cold months:

1. Switch to a cool season fish food. Fish are temperature dependent; therefore their metabolism slows as the water temperature drops. When the water temperature drops below 65º F use a spring & fall fish food, preferably containing wheatgerm, which is easily digested by the fish. Below 42º F cease feeding all together. Always skim off excess food. Do not let it sink to the bottom.
2. During fall months, use pond netting to eliminate leaves accumulating in the pond. Rotting leaves deplete oxygen supplies and add toxic ammonia to the water.
3. When hardy aquatic plants turn brown or begin to fade, cut them back to pot level and place them at the bottom of the pond. Many tropical plants can be over-wintered indoors, but the type and variety of plant, and the specific winter care given determine success.
4. At the first sign of freezing:
   Disconnect all connections leading to the pump. Clean, drain, and store all accessories indoors for the winter months. This will prevent freezing and cracking. Do not run waterfall through the winter months. Ice accumulation will lead to lower water level in the pond, affecting fish health. Leave a pump, protected in a basket, in the pond through the winter to circulate pond water. Moving water will not freeze as readily as still water. Oxygen is mixed into the circulating water, which benefits the fish.
5. Prevent your pond from completely icing over. This traps deadly toxic gases under the ice and hinders gas exchange. Use a pond heater in addition to a pump, this will keep your fish happy and healthy and your water oxygenated.

Pond Care

Spring

Inspect the pond. Remove any dead leaves and debris. When adding water use chlorine and heavy metal neutralizer to remove these from the tap water. Test the tap water for ammonia, if need to use Ammo-lock 2. Test the tap waters pH, it should be neutral. To remove excess sludge on the pond bottom and rocks use a pond vacuum. If the sludge is left it will alter the pH and lower oxygen levels. After the cold winter fish are vulnerable to disease. Use Pond Care brand stress-coat. This replaces their protective slime coating. When the water temperature reaches 42º F the pond fish are ready to start feeding. Use Spring and Autumn Pond fish food. Feed once or twice per week. When the water temperature reaches 50º F pond life becomes active. Use aquatic plant fertilizer liquid or tabs, read the labels, as you do not want to add phosphate or nitrate. In late spring the pond may experience algae or bacteria blooms caused by sunshine and the buildup of dissolved organic matter phosphates and nitrates. This will clear up once the leaf coverage of the pond reaches about 50%-60% but the pond water will be cloudy in the meantime.

Summer

When the pond water temperature reaches 65º F feed the fish Summer Staple Pond Food and add Aquatic plant fertilizers as often as directed. Test the water weekly, checking the pH, ammonia, and nitrate levels. During the hot summer the pond water is less able to hold oxygen. Make sure that fountains, waterfalls, and aerators are working properly.

Autumn

When the pond water temperature is between 50-70º F feed the fish spring and autumn pond food. Gradually reducing the feedings. When the pond water temperature is below 50º F discontinue feeding. Use pond netting to prevent leaves from entering the pond. Remove leaves and debris before they settle to the bottom. Make a 15%-25% water exchange over several consecutive days. Cut back plants. Hardy plants can stay where they are in the pond. Tender plants should be placed in the deep end.

Tropical plants need to be removed from the pond for winter storage inside where they won't freeze.

Winter

Plants and fish require no care and no feeding. The pond surface should not be allowed to freeze over. Oxygen needs to enter carbon dioxide and toxic hydrogen sulfide gas must be allowed to escape. Keeping the pond free of ice: Keep a water pump operating it is good to have some water movement. Use a pond deicer, Styrofoam blocks or rubber balls can be used at night. Check the pond each morning during freezing temperatures. If you notice the pond has frozen over do not chop the ice as the shock waves may kill the fish. Place a pan of boiling hot water on top to thaw a hole in the ice.

Determining Gallons Of Water In Your Pond

Rectangular Or Square

• L x W x D x 7.5 = Gallons
  EXAMPLE: 10' x 6' x 3' x 7.5 = 1,350 GALLONS

Round Top

• Dia. x Bottom Dia. x D x .79 = Gallons

Pond Water Care

Pond Water

pH 7.0 IS IDEAL FOR BOTH PLANTS AND FISH

Low pH develops as the pond life community grows.

1. Too many fish, poor oxygenation, and poor surface agitation.

Correction: Reduce the number of fish, clean the filter or add a larger filter, add a fountain or waterfall.

2. Decomposing organic matter - fish and bird wastes and decaying vegetation. Lack of oxygen.

Correction: Keep the pond clean of dead plants and dead leaves. Plants in the pond help to remove available nutrients.

3. Rainfall will lower pH

4.The pH can be affected by the presence of green algae.

Test Weekly

POND pH ACCEPTABLE RANGE IS 6-8
Readings in the morning are lower than later in the day.

The pH level has direct relationship to the toxicity of Ammonia and Nitrite. Too high a level and the fish and plant life are endangered. Fish become vulnerable to disease and infections.

If a reading is 9 or higher, probably cement or mortar is leaching toxic lime into the water. If cement edging or walkway is the source treat with a commercial lime neutralizer or a nontoxic pool sealant paint.

Ammonia and Nitrate

A WELL BALANCED POND SHOULD NOT HAVE ANY TRACES OF AMMONIA OR NITRITE

A newly set up pond: Will have ammonia and nitrite levels 10 PPM or more until the biological filter becomes established. (May take 4-8 weeks)

An established pond: No ammonia or nitrite should be detected. Nitrite and ammonia levels above .25 PPM indicate possible over feeding, or overstocking of fish, or excess decay of organic matter. (Plant and fish waste)

Test Weekly for Ammonia

Causes for too high readings:

Too small of a filter
High fish populations
Excess fish food
Decaying plants

How to keep safe levels

Add Ammo rocks (follow label directions)
Use Bio filtration - may take up to 8 weeks to become established ("seed" the filter weekly with preserved bacteria, such as Bacta Pur brand or microblift brand)

Test Weekly for Nitrate

If too high (ammonia is also high)

Balance levels with a variety of plants
Establish the filter (add bacteria)
Increase the size of the filter
Increase aeration
Add Ammo rocks

Nitrate

A WELL BALANCED POND WILL HAVE 20 PPM OR LESS

A newly set up pond: will not have detectable levels of nitrate. As the biological filter develops the nitrate level will rise.

An established pond: Usually will have nitrate levels below 140 PPM. Ponds heavily stocked with fish may have levels up to 550 PPM. This may be caused by over feeding as well. Avoid plant fertilizers with ammonia and nitrate.

Need to have a balance of plants that will use up Nitrates. If there is not enough variety of plants then algae will grow.

Foaming in the Pond

When this occurs it indicates the presence of organic decomposition. Also high levels of dissolved organic compounds.

CAUSES OF:
Overstocking of fish
Overfeeding of fish
Decomposing wastes in the bottom of the pond

CORRECTING:
Activated carbon filtration will absorb dissolved organics
Reduce fish population
Decrease amount of fish food
Remove dead plant leaves and stems

Fish Care & Recommendation

STOCKING RECOMMENDATIONS: 1" of fish per square foot of pool surface area

HARDIEST CHOICES:

• Common goldfish, comet goldfish, and shubunkln
• Orfes are for large ponds and are a schooling fish.
• Koi require at least 3' depth, large pond and excellent water quality.

Any changes in a fish's environment can produce stress and will inhibit the fish's immune system and make the fish susceptible to diseases, infections, or parasites.

Commercial "Stress Coat" will help relieve stress by replacing the fish's natural slime coat, which is shed during stressful experiences.

"Stress Coat" can be added to the transport bag or to the pond.

Salt may be added, this also acts as a stress reliever and a general tonic.

Koi and goldfish will jump from the water when placed in an unfamiliar environment.

Nets should be disinfected after each new group of fish.

Acclimating Fish to Your Pond

When introducing fish to your pond, you must equalize the temperature and pH between the bag of water and the pond.

The fish will be stressed if these measures are not taken.

Stressed fish are susceptible to many ailments.

Therefore these measures need to be taken to ensure the vitality of the fish.

1. Float the bag of fish in the pond for 15 minutes. This equalizes the temperature of the water between the bag and the pond.
2. Open the bag and splash several handfuls of pond water into the bag. Do this several times waiting 5 minutes between additions. Close the bag each time. This neutralizes the pH of the water between the bag of fish and the water in the pond.
3. Release fish into the pond by hand. Do not empty water from the bag of fish into your pond. This will avoid possible contamination. Never introduce foreign water into your pond.

"Stress Coat" may be added to the bag while it's floating on the pond. A few drops will replace the mucus coating (slime) on the fish scales. New pond water "strips" the protective mucus coating. This allows for disease to infect the unprotected fish. "Stress coat" is recommended for all pond fish which have been transported or newly acclimated to your pond.

Algae

The most effective way to achieve an algae-free pond is to create a balance of plants.

One bunch of oxygenating plants per square foot of pool surface (consumes excess nutrients-nitrates)

Anacharis is the earliest to break dormancy in the spring. With enough in your pond from the previous year you may avoid a large algae bloom. Other oxygenating plants are Cabomba, Hornwort, and Parrot Feather.

It is recommended 1/3 to 2/3 of water surface should be covered by lily pads and floating plants such as water lettuce, water hyacinth, duckweed, fairymoss, and marginal plants such as sedges and iris.

Avoid topping off or making frequent water changes with nutrient rich tap water. (test your water source to determine pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels)

if you have a large number of fish there is a need for extra oxygenating plants.

Tadpoles and Snails feed upon algae, tufted algae along sides and filamentaceous algae. 1 snail per square foot of pond surface area.

Bullfrog tadpoles take 2 years to become frogs. We sell them when they are in their 2nd year just as they are developing their legs.

Install small pumps and spouting water features in areas of the pond that invite algae growth.

Install the waterfall pump at the opposite side of the pond to ensure water circulation and turnover.

Because algae feed on dissolved nutrients in the water oxygenation from a waterfall is not enough.

A combination of oxygenating and marginal plants and a biological filtration system cleans the water of algae.

Smooth algae on the pool and pot sides is a sign of good health in the pond.